7 Mistakes You’re Making with Redding Reloading Dies (and How to Fix Them)
The sun dips low over the sagebrush, casting long, tired shadows across the porch. Inside the workshop, the air is thick with the scent of spent primers and gun oil. There is a specific kind of silence found only at a reloader’s bench: a quiet reverence for the craft. You’ve got your brass cleaned, your powder measured, and your Redding reloading dies threaded into the press. You’re chasing the "truth" of the shot, that perfect intersection of physics and patience.
But even with the best reloading supplies on the market, precision isn't guaranteed. Redding makes some of the finest gunsmithing tools and dies in the world, but they aren't magic wands. They are precision instruments. If you treat them like a rusted pipe wrench, your groups at the range will show it. Whether you are using the best reloading press for beginners or a high-end turret, small errors in die setup can lead to inconsistent neck tension, ruined brass, or: worst of all: a "flyer" that ruins a perfect day in the field.
Here are the 7 most common mistakes folks make with their Redding dies, and how to get back on the trail of accuracy.
1. Mixing Shell Holders Like Stray Cattle
It’s a common sight on many benches: a Redding die paired with a Lee Precision reloading equipment shell holder or another off-brand. While many shell holders are "universal," they aren't all born equal. Redding dies are engineered to a specific deck height. When you mix brands, you’re introducing a variable that can throw off your headspace.
The fix is simple: stay loyal. If you’re using Redding dies, use a Redding shell holder set. It ensures that when the ram hits the bottom of the die, the "shoulder bump" is exactly where the engineers intended. Consistency is the law of the West. If you find yourself needing to clean out those tight tolerances, a Birchwood Casey brass slotted tip can help keep your small parts free of grit.
2. Over-Sizing and the "Shoulder Crush"
New reloaders often think more is better. They screw that full-length sizing die down until it cams over hard, crushing the brass into submission. This is a mistake. Over-sizing pushes the shoulder back too far, creating excessive headspace. This doesn’t just hurt accuracy; it fatigues the brass, leading to case head separation.
You want a "shoulder bump" of about .001" to .002" for bolt-action rifles. To fix this, back the die off and use a headspace gauge. Sneak up on the adjustment until the bolt closes on your resized brass with just a hint of resistance. It’s about the feel. The weight of the bolt. The silent marriage of steel and brass.
3. Neglecting the Expander Ball
The expander ball inside your Redding die is there to set the internal neck diameter. However, if it’s dry or dirty, it can pull the neck out of alignment as the ram moves downward. This creates "runout": the bullet enters the rifling at a slight angle.
Take a moment to polish that expander ball. A bit of fine emery cloth or a specialized cleaning tool can make it smooth as a river stone. If you're doing serious bench work, consider moving to a Redding Type S Bushing Die, which allows you to control neck tension without an expander ball at all. It’s one of those precision shooting accessories that separates the marksmen from the amateurs.
4. The "Set It and Forget It" Locking Ring Trap
Redding dies come with high-quality locking rings, but if you don't tighten them down while there is a case in the die under pressure, the die can "float" or tilt slightly in the press threads. This leads to inconsistent seating depths and wonky concentricity.
When you find your "sweet spot," raise the ram with a piece of brass inside the die. Then tighten the lock ring. This centers the die in the threads of your reloading equipment for sale. It’s a small detail, but in the world of long-range shooting, the small details are where the ghosts live.
5. Misjudging Seating Depth
We’ve all been there. You’re trying to find the perfect jump to the lands for your 243 Winchester rounds, but you’re adjusting the seating stem by "feel" and a prayer. Standard seating dies are great, but they can be finicky when you're looking for that last hundredth of an inch.
The fix? Invest in a bullet seating micrometer. Redding offers these as replacements for their standard seating stems. It gives you a clear, engraved scale to make repeatable adjustments. No more guessing. Just a crisp, mechanical click and the truth of the measurement.
6. Ignoring the Grit in the Guts
Your dies live in a world of carbon, lead shavings, and case lube. Over time, this gunk builds up inside the die body. If a piece of grit gets trapped in your seating die, it can mar the bullet nose or change the seating depth. If it gets in the sizing die, it’ll scratch your expensive brass.
Treat your dies like you treat a fine Cimarron Pistolero. Clean them every few hundred rounds. Use a dedicated solvent and a soft patch. If you need to disassemble them, use the right gunsmithing tools, like a quality roll pin punch or a specialized wrench, to avoid marring the finish.
7. Using the Wrong Lube (or Too Much of It)
Case lube is a necessary evil. Use too little, and you’ll have a stuck case that requires a removal kit and a lot of cursing. Use too much, and you’ll get "lube dents": those little hydraulic dimples on the shoulder of the brass. Redding dies have very tight tolerances; they don't leave much room for excess grease.
The fix: Use a high-quality wax-based lube and apply it sparingly with your fingers. You want a thin, even film. Avoid getting lube on the shoulder of the case; focus on the body and a tiny bit on the inside of the neck if you’re using an expander ball. It’s a tactile process. The slickness of the metal. The steady pressure of the lever.
Why Redding Matters
In an era of rapid-fire plastic and disposable gear, Redding stays steadfast in its commitment to steel and precision. Whether you are loading for a Howa HS Precision rifle or an old lever-action, these dies are designed to last a lifetime: if you treat them right.
Reloading isn't just about saving a few pennies per round. It’s about the tradition of self-reliance. It’s about knowing that when you pull the trigger, the result is a direct reflection of your own craftsmanship. It’s the difference between "close enough" and "dead center."
When you're finished with your session, don't just toss your gear in a drawer. Keep your finished cartridges in a water-resistant field box to protect your hard work from the elements.
The Western Gun Store Promise
We know the frontier can be a harsh place for gear. That’s why we only carry the brands we trust our own hunts to. If you’re struggling with your setup or need advice on the best reloading supplies for your specific caliber, stop by the shop or drop us a line. We’d love the opportunity to make things right and get you back on target.
Stay sharp, stay steady, and keep your powder dry. The range is calling.